An exceptional example of vintage Bob Mackie evening wear, this dramatic circa 1980s cocktail dress combines Mackie's unmistakable theatrical glamour with an extraordinarily sophisticated black-and-silver palette. Made in the USA and retailed through Neiman Marcus, the dress features a sleek black body dramatically contrasted by elaborate silver bugle-bead embellishment cascading across its spectacular open back.
From the front, the silhouette is deceptively restrained: a sculptural bateau neckline, pronounced padded shoulders, long sleeves and a beautifully draped, body-skimming knee-length silhouette. Silver bugle-bead embroidery traces the neckline before descending into multiple graduated swag-like strands across the bodice, creating the effect of built-in jewelry.
The reverse transforms the dress completely. A dramatically plunging open back is framed by densely hand-worked silver-tone bugle beads extending vertically from the shoulders and falling into a series of increasingly deep suspended loops. The result is almost architectural as part evening dress, part jeweled sculpture and quintessentially Bob Mackie.
The interplay between the minimal black fabric and highly dimensional metallic embellishment allows the beadwork to move and catch the light as the wearer walks. The exaggerated shoulder construction creates Mackie's characteristic powerful 1980s silhouette while balancing the sensuality of the dramatically exposed back.
Long sleeves finish with concealed zipper cuffs, another elevated construction detail that allows for a narrow, tailored sleeve opening while making the garment easier to put on and remove. A concealed center-back zipper sits beneath the open-back construction.
Interior labels include Bob Mackie, Neiman Marcus, a vintage ILGWU union label, Made in U.S.A., and dry-clean-only labeling.
Comparable Bob Mackie pieces preserved in museum collections from the 1980s combine silk crepe, extensive bugle-bead embellishment and Neiman Marcus labeling, making this dress an especially compelling example of Mackie's American evening wear from the period.
Designer
Bob Mackie
Retailer
Neiman Marcus
Era / Date
Circa 1980s; likely mid-to-late 1980s
Collection
Vintage Bob Mackie eveningwear / Neiman Marcus retail collection. Specific season or collection is undocumented.
Country of Manufacture
Made in U.S.A.
Color
Black / Silver
Style
Cocktail dress / evening dress / open-back dress / embellished dress
Details
Dramatic bateau neckline
Structured padded shoulders
Long sleeves
Concealed zipper cuffs
Fitted-to-draped sheath silhouette
Knee-length hem
Extremely deep open back
Multiple graduated draped beadwork swags
Dense silver-tone bugle-bead embroidery
Beaded neckline
Concealed center-back zipper
Bob Mackie designer label
Neiman Marcus retailer label
Vintage ILGWU union label
Made in U.S.A.
Dry clean only
Size & Fit
Marked size: Size label not observed
Estimated modern fit: Approximately US Large / roughly US 10–12
The dress is photographed on a US 4/6 mannequin and was clipped substantially to fit the mannequin. It is considerably larger than the form shown and should not be assumed to fit as closely as represented in the photographs.
Approximate Measurements
Because the garment was clipped for photography, these should be considered preliminary approximate measurements:
Shoulder to shoulder: 16–16.5"
Bust: approximately 38–40"
Waist: approximately 32–34"
Hip: approximately 40–42"
Sleeve length: approximately 23–24"
Shoulder to hem: approximately 40–42"
Back opening depth: approximately 19–21"
Please compare measurements with a similar garment that fits well. Vintage sizing differs considerably from contemporary sizing.
Condition
Very good vintage condition.
The black fabric presents beautifully with little to no visible signs of wear consistent with the garment's age and previous use. Some areas of the extensive silver bugle-bead embellishment are loose, with minor irregularities to the beadwork consistent with age, construction and the considerable weight of the embellishment. This is most apparent upon close inspection and does not detract significantly from the overall presentation.
Given the age and intricacy of the beadwork, gentle handling is recommended. Please review all photographs closely as they form part of the condition description.
Why It Is Special
Bob Mackie's work is defined by the relationship between clothing, movement and spectacle, and this dress captures that philosophy particularly well. From the front it reads as an elegant black cocktail dress; from behind, the extraordinary open-back construction and cascading metallic beadwork reveal an entirely different garment.
It is a striking collectible example of American evening wear and an especially strong choice for a collector of Bob Mackie, 1980s fashion, American designer fashion or highly embellished vintage evening wear.
